Yesterday was overcast but dry and we made our way to St Andrew’s Beach on the southern end of the island. Ghost crabs were everywhere and provided plenty of entertainment. They are almost invisible on the sand and it’s their eyes on stalks and white claws that give them away. They appear to spend the day scampering around the beach and jumping into holes at the first sign of danger. Their holes are surprisingly deep and we pondered about the labyrinth that was beneath our feet.
The southern beach area has many uprooted trees that create incredible sculptural landscapes as well as homes for oysters and crabs.
Today we were planning on leaving the hotel and go to the northern end of the island and camp for a few days. We woke up to high winds and rain so decided to stay put another day. The thought of trying to get the rain fly and ground sheet installed in high winds and rain did not appeal. We have been pushing this camping stint further and further forward hoping for better weather. So this morning we bundled up and took a beach walk. The wind and sand provided free abrasion and the ocean was warm (bathtub warm). We had the beach to ourselves and the valiant birds looking for breakfast.
Today started off with…. Rain. Undaunted we drove to an area called glory beach and then beach combed to the southern tip of the island. We were mostly alone except for all kinds of birds, dolphins, the occasional pesky sand fly and a few mosquitos. We ended up at the beginning of the flooded forest where trees have been uprooted. They are now encrusted with oysters (up to the water line) and are homes to numerous nimble crabs. As the tide was turning we were luck to see all kinds of crabs scurrying around. The blue ones were mating. It was intriguing to see the males clinging to the females while trying to defend their territory from my foot!
This one let go of his mate to defend his territory. She scampered away very quickly
Talking of mating, we were very much entertained by the Royal Terns.
As you can see from my sketch both birds seem to dislocate their wings as part of their courting behavior.
The males would bring fish to their potential mate. We watched one pair for quite a while. She seemed largely unimpressed by the fish despite his efforts to present it to her. Finally she attempted a bite. He clearly was getting pissed and refused to give it to her. Needless to say she walked away, not wishing to play his games. A few moments later he took off, with his fish
Later we saw a couple in the mating position. He balanced on top while she walked around. It was a remarkable balancing act that lasted for minutes. I’m not sure when the actual act happened but running around like a cheerleader team at the football game was very entertaining.
Later this evening we took a stroll around the stately cottages built by the vanderbilts and their ilk. Very beautiful structures underneath water oaks, massive cedars and magnolia trees all draped in Spanish moss. We finished our stroll at the Jekyll Island Clubhouse for a glass of wine and lounge on the extensive porch.
Spanish mossOur 2nd home….when we are gifted millionsLizard in sago palm
Heading east from Katy, Houston and I was in totally new territory. What contrasts! Endless traffic, road construction everywhere, oil and gas extraction and chemical plants followed by some amazing bayou countryside.
The sky line was studded with industrial plants…
…resulting in oily rain splatter. It could have been back splash from the road or oil-laden rain…either-way totally un appealing
Once we left this industrial area behind us we entered bayou country. Swamped Forrests and bridges miles long. The most impressive for me was the Atchafalaya Basin bridge (18 miles)
If you have the time and inclination it’s fascinating reading about this basin. It’s basically a flood management project to take flood waters of the Mississippi and red rivers straight to the gulf. It’s a fascinating area worth an extended visit for the bird and water life.
As we drove through this area there were trees on either side. The road was elevated and the east and west bound roads were separated with water in between. At the information center it was apparent that this is a major nature lovers’ destination. Canoe rentals and fishing were high on the list of things to do.
We overnighted in Covington, got up fairly early with glamping at St Andrews State Park , FL on our minds. The camp ground itself is lovely but getting there was a bit of a trial. Both Andreas and I were wondering whether we had made a good decision as the approach to the state park was heavily developed with strip malls and private homes or complexes restricting access to the beach area. Joan Baez’s “little boxes” came to mind. Once we arrived at the park our fears were assuaged. While most of the campers were in RVs there were a few intrepid tent campers and a couple of us “glampers”. Lying in a real bed with the coastal breezes blowing through the mesh covered doorways and windows was wonderful.
Our “tent” looked out over the bay and we could enjoy watching the fishing and tourist boats coming and going. One disturbing advisory note on our bed on arrival was a notice to call the office if we found an alligator under the tent! I didn’t look.
That evening we dined on fresh grouper (bought at the local marina where day-fishers rented boats), fresh veggies and rice with a nice wine to wash it down. All while sitting at the picnic table next to our tent watching the pelican parades, herons and egrets. Later in the evening I heard what I thought to be a whipporwill. Turns out it was a related bird called a Chuck-will’s-widow. It’s hard to spot as it camouflages well in leaf litter but its song is distinctive. It also gets up early – before sunrise.
We were also up and about early as the weather forecast was for a big storm and were anxious to walk the beach on the ocean side before breakfast and the rain. As it turns out we were lucky with the rain and enjoyed our beach combing followed by avocado toast for breakfast.
We were on the road by 10:30 heading for Thomasville Georgia.
And then the rains came. Blinding rain that forced us off the road to figure out an alternate route. What a lucky thing that was. We ended up staying off the freeway on route 20 driving through some beautiful countryside of northern Florida and south west Georgia.
Thomasville was a delightful discovery. A red-brick town with a real lived-in feel. There’s old and new money here. The old money originated in the plantation days and was largely enabled by the slave labor. Later, northerners recognized the beauty of the area and the mild winters so it became a winter escape for the wealthy. Today, lumbering and agriculture are still the main economic drivers. It is however The destination for Quail hunting. Who knew?
Enjoying an evening tipple at the “Dog and Pony”
Yesterday was our last leg to the East Coast and Jekyll island was our destination. Again we had a serendipitous find at Banks Lake. Lots of Cedar and Spanish moss.
Banks Lake National Wildlife Refuge near Lakeland GA
It would take me a while to master painting these trees and their reflections. What a wonderful place to stay for a few days just soaking in a new environment.
The water is referred to as blackwater due to its clear but tea-colored appearance. The water is colored by tannins
Today we are at Jekyll island. We arrived yesterday afternoon and Andreas gave the 50 cent tour of the island. There’s plenty to see if the weather turns to rain. We did manage to get an Atlantic beach walk last night and a longer one this morning. There are huge sandy beaches, lots of sea birds. The Royal terns caught our attention today. They group in colonies and appear to be selecting mates. Last night we saw a single Black skimmer. It’s a very handsome bird with a bright red ring at the top of its beak. There are small groups of sanderlings that run around in the waves. They seem to have only three modes, stationary, pecking in the sand and running around like crazy. The pelicans were patrolling and fishing a little further out from the coast line. The highlight of the morning was discovering a sea turtle trail where she came ashore earlier at high tide this morning to lay here eggs. The nest area was already roped off but we could still see her “foot prints” clambering up the beach.
Well that’s all for now. The promised rain has settled in and we’re are sitting on one of the Days Inn balconies looking out to the sea. The horizon has almost disappeared, kiddies were playing in the pool but have probably headed in for supper…..which sounds like a good idea.
Life on my Own Terms 