Exploring the Waddenzee

After a week in Bergen, we saddled the horses and headed north through the dunes to Den Helder, the northern most tip of North Holland. From there we took the car ferry across to Texel. It was an exhilarating ride, a strong NW wind and gusty squalls the whole way. Fortunately there were places to stop and warm up. For the last few miles, as we looked seaward, a narrow strip of sandbank extended far out parallel to the land. The sun glinted off it turning it into a golden ghost hovering above a grey sea and heavy sky.

Getting onto the ferry was „a breeze“ and as the ship left port the sun started to poke through the clouds. 30 minutes later we were cycling in the sun through fields of chamomile and poppies.

That night we stayed in a delightful place (The Island Life near De Koog) complete with a private sauna. What a welcome indulgence! the following morning breakfast was served outside in a gazebo like structure complete with heaters. There we met fellow travelers from Belgium and The Netherlands. It was a congenial way to start our exploration of Texel. We opted for the East coast route facing the Waddenzee (.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wadden_Sea). This is a shallow tidal body of water that in some places dries up at low tide. It’s a birders‘ paradise. This time the wind was behind us and bicycling was joyful. We even experienced the „Fata Morgana (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fata_Morgana_(mirage)) phenomenon“. The more eastern islands floated above the horizon.

We continued our exploration to the norther most tip of Texel to catch the ferry to Flieland.

The beginning of our bicycle route facing the Waddenzee. Bicycle path on the right

The Texel to Flieland ferry experience was an adventure. It started by having to push our bikes along a narrow raised boardwalk, down a steep slope and onto the boat. About 25-30 bikes and people safely managed the transition. On the otherside it was unworldly! The ferry beached itself on a massive sandbank where seals had gathered for the entertainment. Here we manhandled the biked over the bows of the ferry onto the sand. From there we pushed the biked through thick sand to the waiting sand bus. It reminded me of the glacier buses in Canada. With the help of the bus crew all the bikes were hauled up the steps to the bus and then the people squeezed in.

From there it was about a 15-20 minute ride to the Posthuys (https://posthuysvlieland.nl/) where we stayed over night. A squadron of cormorants flew in formation along side our bus route, seemingly enjoying putting on a show of amazing flight skills. They skimmed the wave tops close to the sand and it made me wonder whether there are some special conditions a foot or so above the water that these birds use to fly effortlessly (or so it seemed) over the waves.

By the time we reached the Posthuys, the cafeteria was closed. Fortunately we had brought some sandwiches and cheese from our delightful breakfast that morning and Andreas had packed hot toddy makings. We finished the exciting, memorable day with a beach walk as the sun set.

The following morning after fish on toast breakfast we followed the bicycle path through wonderful dunes packed with grasses and flowers. As we approached the Eastern end of the island we started to encounter a few holiday houses, a glamping site and a large hotel with a very convenient Strandpavilijoen (beach cafe). We arrived just in time as the heavens opened.

Our ferry back to the mainland left from the charming small village of Oost Vlieland. Here we tested out just how strong the sea breeze was. It was able to push me along the waterfront easily at 12 km/hr!

For three whole days we cycled the dykes facing either the North Sea or the Waddenzee. Miles upon miles of protected waterfront that clearly is a Mecca for both resident and migratory birds and seals. What a treasure! The hospitality, awe inspiring shore line and dyke management and bicycle paths leaves an enduring impression. We are hoping to come back to this area next year and spend more time soaking in this wonderful countryside. Yes the double-entendre was intended😉

Our day was not quite over. Another ferry( this time a car ferry) took us back to the fishing town of Harlingen where we enjoyed a canal side loft apartment for the night.

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Author: Marilyn

I'm an artist working primarily in wood. My work has taken a story-telling path over the past two years.

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